girls i wanna hold hands with from rubynet

[Autistic Spectrum]

this is not an ordered or ironic list

gabi-xx
roflbrothel
cag
terrorbaby
ramen's hot sister

kwl

[steveyos]

cag (completely platonic don't worry doli)
sophie cox
tim

[Autistic Spectrum]

ALL THE OTHER GIRLS THAT POST HERE THAT DID NOT MAKE THE LIST ARE NASTY AS FUCK

i invited rofl back to the florums and she already quit again ugh

[steveyos]

that's not how you do it, here's how I do it for fjs:


step 1. don't talk to teh girls at all

step 2. work on making fjs awesome

step 3. girls come back

you don't invite them back when a forum is in as bad shape as this one they'll goa way frorever even when the forum gets good

[Autistic Spectrum]

wait it out for another year, she will come back

[steveyos]

ban lisa that's a start

[Autistic Spectrum]

for 2 days, and leave again

one day ramen's sister will post here

[Autistic Spectrum]

u are the only one who can make that happen monde, it's up to you

ramen and i would have to talk her into it together

[Autistic Spectrum]

ramen seems really jealous of her sisters hot body, so i don't see it happening

one day ramen's sister will post here

make it so

[steveyos YOLO]

What about rubys dead sister and ufocardfan08

[Genital Doli]

i wanna hold all there hansds but NO sex stuff, thats jsut gross, and further more ilegal clay has been very clear about teh rules

[Poopalew]

i wanna hold all there hansds but NO sex stuff, thats jsut gross, and further more ilegal clay has been very clear about teh rules

She squirmed around a fair amount.

[PROFESSIONAL WHITE SUPREMACIST]

[Tahiti Joe]

you forgot Wendy.

[Autistic Spectrum]

From wardshrake@aol.com Sat Oct 29 13:15:02 PDT 1994
Article: 5164 of rec.games.video.arcade.collecting
From: wardshrake@aol.com (WardShrake)
Newsgroups: rec.games.video.arcade.collecting
Subject: TECH TIP, Advanced; PC board repair.

--------------------------------------------------
Tips on modifying or repairing PC board traces.
(c) Copyright Oct. 1994 Ward Shrake
--------------------------------------------------

Yes, Virginia, there are ways to repair even cracked-in-half printed
circuit boards, if you are patient, careful, and above all (hee, hee!)
desperate or brave enough to want to try!

First off, let me try to ease your possible anxiety on a few points. These
methods aren't very well known, that is true. However, it is not because
they are mind-bogglingly difficult to perform. One important, general
assumption in the electronics industry is that PC boards are disposable,
expendable items. It is not considered cost effective to try to fix most
board related problems, even simple ones like one dead chip that needs to
be replaced.

Generally, it is assumed that if a board breaks down for any reason, you
just throw it away and swap in an identical replacement, of which there
are many more commonly available. "Plug-and-chuck" repair methods exists
for good reason: every hour of a repair technician's time is money being
billed to someone, not to mention any revenue potentially being lost while
the widget is being repaired. These assumptions are so ingrained and
widely spread, they aren't often questioned. For the electronics industry
as a whole, the primary repair goal is speedy, economical turn-around time
on each widget.

For an electronic hobbyist, the "rules" of the underlying situation are
different. For instance, time spent to troubleshoot and repair the actual
problem in a broken (and therefore, "worthless") electronic item would
likely be considered as "wasted" time in the industry. Not so, to an
open-minded, dedicated hobbyist! That person may consider that time well
spent, in both an educational, and an enjoyable way. He or she gained both
the repaired item, (which may be rare or commercially unavailable), and as
important side benefits, gained pride and confidence in their abilities,
and bragging rights or respect among fellow hobbyists.

Now that I have, hopefully, convinced you that there is no big, mysterious
reason that PC boards aren't repaired more often, let's examine some
background information and then quickly move on to how to do the actual
repairs. It is not as hard to do as you might have believed.

Printed circuit boards are made up of a flat, thin inner "substrate"
plate, made up of a non-electrically conductive material (fiberglass is
common, as are epoxy-based materials) covered on one or both major
surfaces with a thin copper coating. This copper coating initially comes
as a complete sheet, bonded to the substrate's entire top or bottom
surface. Oversimplified a bit, a printed circuit board is created by
masking certain portions of the copper plating off with a temporary
protective coating ("etch resist"), and then placing the entire board in a
special acid solution (usually ferric chloride), which "etches" away only
the exposed copper areas. The result, when this process is finished and
the temporary coating has been removed, is a custom-planned maze of small
strips of copper (called tracks or "traces"), bonded to the substrate's
surface. Electrically speaking, these strips of copper are either joined
to, or seperated from, each other. They act just as "real" insulated
wiring does, even if they look quite different.

These copper traces are literally bonded or "glued" to the substrate
itself. Normally, they will remain bonded "forever". Excessive heat,
however, can cause this "glue" to come undone, with the result that the
thin wire "traces" lift themselves off of the PC board's surface. This can
probably be repaired, generally speaking, with some work. (However, it is
best prevented, by using only a 30-watt or smaller soldering iron. A
15-watt iron or a temperature-controlled soldering station is preferred
for PC board work.)

If a trace became damaged near its middle, it is much easier to fix than
if it came undone at either end. (However, don't scrap the board in either
case. It can be fixed, and what do you have to lose in trying, anyway!)
What you will be doing if a trace lifted from a board, is finding some
part of it that is still attached to the board's substrate, and carefully
attaching a wire to it at that point, to replace the rest of the damaged
trace. The wire's other end attaches directly to the component lead or
pin, or onto the wire trace, close to the component.

This repair, called a "jumper", is fairly common on first-revision
commercial circuit boards, which proves that it can be done, when industry
feels it is an economical repair. This is because first-revision PC boards
usually have one or more as yet uncorrected design flaws, where some
traces went to the wrong places. Companies feel it is easier, sometimes,
to hand-repair a few bad traces, than to redesign and remanufacture the
entire board assembly. They'll get around to that, they figure, on the
next board revision.

To install these "jumpers," factory technicians may have to physically cut
the offending trace, breaking its electrical connection at some location.
They then rewire it the revised way, usually with thin "wire wrap" style
wire. (Now if you see a bunch of funny little wires running across a brand
new board, you'll know why: someone wasn't paying attention!)

A sharp (new) "X-acto" type of razor knife works fine for this
modification. (I recommend the #16 blade type.) To electrically
disconnect a wire trace, CAREFULLY cut two parallel lines across the
trace, spaced closely together. Then gently, CAREFULLY peel the middle
piece up and off the board.

This trick is useful, for instance, if you have two pins on an edge
connector that you want to
swap. Disconnect both on the board (behind and away from the connector),
then rewire them.

The hardest part, other than physically getting a tiny wire to go where
you want it to, is due to the (usually) green coating seen on almost all
PC boards. This is specifically designed to resist solder, so you cannot
attach a wire to it! You have to remove a spot of it, above where you want
to solder in your jumper wires. This coating is called a "solder mask." It
keeps solder away from areas where the designers did not want it, during
its initially assembly. The coating also protects the exposed copper from
oxidizing after assembly, so it serves a dual purpose.

Fortunately, removing part of the coating to get at the bare copper under
it, so that you can solder to the wire traces, isn't all that hard.
Really. I personally haven't screwed up a board yet, doing this, if that
makes you feel any better!

All it takes is a very fine grade (400 or 600) of "Wet or Dry" sandpaper,
but be extremely careful when using it! Those wire traces are thin; not
much more than a few thousands of an inch thick! Obviously, you can sand
too vigorously, and go right through the traces themselves. Fortunately, I
think most repairers will be naturally worried enough that they will take
it easy!

Take your time. Wet the sandpaper. (But avoid splashing water on the board
itself; just barely dampen the paper, and rinse it off as you work.) I
recommend that you use the finest grade of wet-or-dry paper that you can
buy.

All you want to do is remove the fairly thin, green coating from a small
area of the PC board, so that you can reach the bare copper of the traces
under it. I usually use only a small strip of the sandpaper, cut from a
larger sheet. Size isn't critical, and it will vary with the size of the
area you are trying to sand down. A starting-point "Rule of thumb" might
be a strip about half an inch wide, and a few (3 to 5) inches long. I
usually just wrap the paper around a fingertip, taking care to try to
spread my sanding pressure gently and evenly, so that I don't end up
lightly sanding the outside edges, while sanding right through the center!

Sand a little, then take a look at the board. Work slowly; you'll get the
hang of it. And always use good lighting, of course, as with any close or
delicate work.

This is truly safe, I feel. However, until you've gained some confidence
in this, you may feel better about it if you first tested your skills on a
truly worthless PC board. I suggest almost anything with relatively "fat"
traces, as long as it is NOT powered by AC! (Perhaps practice
cutting-and-jumpering some wire traces on say a throw-away,
battery-powered transistor radio, before you venture on to a valued
board.)

Once you know how, and feel confident, it is fairly simple to lightly
"tin" the copper traces using small-diameter solder. Tin one end of a
jumper wire, too. Once they are both tinned, just solder the two together
and connect the other end of the jumper wire where you need it. Repairs or
modifications are about the same, once you know how to do this.

Comments on this article are welcome. I hope it was useful, and of some
interest to you!

Regards,
Ward F. Shrake

wardshrake@aol.com

[StompleB]

killgreys

[LadyKillmonger]

what's fucking well wrong with MY hand huh?

[steveyos YOLO]

You used in inappropriately while talking to plug drugs

[Poopalew]

You used in inappropriately while talking to plug drugs

pope kassius

[LadyKillmonger]

why isn't anyone stringing together coherent sentences?

[steveyos YOLO]

Poplew is a bot and my tablet changes words constantly

[Poopalew]

Poplew is a bot and my tablet changes words constantly

Physician-assisted suicide is mine; claim.

[Poopalew]

why isn't anyone stringing together coherent sentences?

should of deleted this thread when i was modfucking hell, why the hell should i stay?